Marquise Cut Diamonds: Style, Value & How to Choose

Marquise cut diamonds offer a blend of vintage elegance and budget-friendly value that’s hard to ignore. For those seeking a distinctive shape that stands out and maximizes size for the price, the marquise is an ideal contender. In this guide, we’ll explain what a marquise cut is, highlight its unique features, weigh the pros and cons, discuss why it can be a great value, and provide tips on choosing the perfect marquise diamond for your ring.

What Is a Marquise Cut Diamond?

A marquise cut diamond is a fancy diamond shape characterized by an elongated, boat-shaped (or eye-shaped) outline with two pointed ends. This cut’s name comes from 18th-century French royalty: legend says King Louis XV commissioned a diamond to resemble the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. The resulting shape was nicknamed the “navette” (French for “little boat”) for its slender, boat-like appearance.

In terms of cut style, the marquise is a modified brilliant cut with typically 56–58 facets, meaning it’s designed for sparkle much like a round brilliant. A well-cut marquise diamond can display excellent brilliance – in fact, experts note its light performance is nearly on par with a round brilliant. The marquise’s long, narrow silhouette gives it a regal vibe (it was once mostly worn by nobility) and makes it instantly recognizable among other diamond shapes.

Unique Features of Marquise Diamonds

A marquise-cut diamond engagement ring. The marquise’s elongated shape and pointed ends create a distinctive silhouette that elongates the finger.

One striking feature of the marquise cut is its elongated shape, which has a flattering effect on the hand. When set vertically (north-south) in a ring, a marquise draws the eye along the length of the finger, making the wearer’s fingers look longer and more slender. This elegant, elongated silhouette often exudes a vintage charm and can be a real show-stopper. Some designers even set marquise diamonds horizontally (“east-west”) for a unique, modern twist that emphasizes the stone’s graceful curve.

Another key characteristic of marquise diamonds is their pointed tips. Unlike shapes with rounded or blunt ends, the marquise’s two sharp endpoints are its most vulnerable areas. These tips can be prone to chipping if exposed, so they must be protected by the ring’s setting. Jewelers typically use V-shaped prongs at each end to cradle and shield the points. You might also see marquise stones set in a bezel, which encircles the diamond’s perimeter in metal for maximum protection. With a proper setting that covers its tips, a marquise-cut diamond can be worn confidently without an outsize risk of damage.

Lastly, the marquise’s shape delivers an illusion of size. Thanks to an elongated outline and large crown surface area, a marquise diamond will appear larger face-up than many other cuts of the same carat weight. We’ll discuss this more as a “pro,” but it’s a defining trait: the marquise is all about spread. In fact, this cut boasts one of the biggest top surface areas per carat of any diamond shape, which leads directly into its perceived value benefits.

Pros & Cons of Marquise Cut Diamonds

Like any diamond shape, the marquise comes with its advantages and disadvantages. Below we break down the main pros and cons to consider:

Pros of Marquise Diamonds

• Larger Appearance: Marquise diamonds face up exceptionally large for their weight. The elongated shape and shallow depth give a marquise one of the largest diametric spreads of all cuts – about 15% larger face-up than an equivalent round diamond. In practical terms, this means a marquise will look big on the finger relative to its carat weight, delivering more visual impact and “wow” factor. If you want a stone that looks substantial without paying for extra carats, the marquise is a smart choice.
  
  
• Slender, Elegant Look: The marquise’s proportions create an elegant, slenderizing effect. Its length makes the finger appear leaner and longer, which many people find very flattering. This cut also carries a romantic, vintage-style charm. It was particularly popular in bygone eras (and saw a resurgence in the 1970s), so it often gives a ring a touch of antique or Art Deco glamour. Moreover, because marquise diamonds are uncommon today, wearing one can feel unique and personal – your ring will stand out in a sea of round and oval diamonds.
  
  
• Budget-Friendly Price: Marquise cut diamonds are generally less expensive than rounds of the same carat and quality. They can cost roughly 10–25% less than a comparable round brilliant. This price advantage exists for a couple of reasons (explained more below): the marquise’s cutting process preserves more of the rough diamond (higher yield), and market demand for marquises is lower than for the classic round. The bottom line is you’ll typically pay less per carat for a marquise, which means you can either save money or get a larger stone for the same budget.
  
  
• Brilliant Sparkle: Despite its unusual shape, the marquise is a brilliant cut diamond. It uses a facet arrangement similar to round and oval cuts, so it delivers plenty of fire and brilliance. When well cut, a marquise diamond will sparkle beautifully with flashes of light. In fact, modern marquise cuts have been optimized to approach the brilliance of round brilliants. You don’t have to sacrifice sparkle for shape with this cut.
  
  
• Uniqueness: If having a less common ring is a priority, the marquise shines here. Marquise engagement rings reportedly account for under 5% of all diamond sales. In an era where rounds, cushions, and ovals dominate, a marquise diamond ring immediately catches the eye as an uncommon choice. Its distinctive “football” shape (another nickname) is recognizable and memorable. Choosing a marquise cut is a great way to express an individual style – you’re unlikely to see many others with the same look.
  
  

Cons of Marquise Diamonds

• Bow-Tie Effect: Marquise diamonds (like ovals and pears) often exhibit a phenomenon known as the bow-tie effect – a dark, bow-tie shaped shadow across the center of the stone. This occurs due to the way light reflects in an elongated brilliant cut. Every marquise will have some degree of bow-tie, but the severity varies. A mild, subtle bow-tie can actually create nice contrast, but a very dark or pronounced bow-tie is considered undesirable since it makes the center look lifeless or dark. One downside of marquises is that finding one with a minimal bow-tie can take effort; it’s not something graded on a lab report, so you must inspect the stone. We’ll cover how to avoid an overly dark bow-tie in the buying tips section.
  
  
• Fragile Pointed Tips: The same pointed ends that define the marquise’s shape are also a weakness. Those tips are thin, sharp points of diamond that can chip or snag more easily than a rounded corner would. Without proper protection (like secure prongs or a bezel), the points may catch on clothing or get damaged from impact. This means a marquise ring isn’t as carefree as, say, a round diamond in a bezel – you’ll need to be mindful of the setting. However, this con is manageable: as long as the setting includes prongs or a bezel covering the tips, the risk is greatly reduced.
  
  
• Limited Availability: Because marquise cuts are less in demand, the selection of marquise diamonds on the market is smaller. Jewelers and online retailers typically carry fewer marquise stones (especially in certain size or quality ranges) than they do rounds or ovals. This lower availability (marquises were only ~1–5% of GIA-certified diamonds for sale in recent surveys) can mean fewer choices when shopping. You might have to search a bit more to find the right marquise that meets your specs, whereas rounds are abundant. The flip side is that this rarity makes your ring more distinctive – but it can be a slight inconvenience for the buyer.
  
  
• Shows Color at Tips: Marquise diamonds tend to show color tints more at their pointed ends. The elongated shape and shallower cut can cause any yellowish body color to concentrate near the tips of the stone. In larger marquise diamonds (usually above 1 carat), you might notice the points look a bit darker or warmer than the center, especially in certain lighting. This means that if you’re color-sensitive, you may need a higher color grade for a marquise than you would choose for a round. It’s a minor con – and one that can be mitigated by selecting a well-cut, well-colored stone (or by setting the diamond in yellow/rose gold which masks warmth). We’ll give specific color guidance in the next section.
  
  
• Symmetry Matters: The beauty of a marquise heavily relies on perfect symmetry. Each half of the diamond (left and right) should mirror the other. If the cut is even slightly off (one end thicker, one side more curved, etc.), it will be noticeable to the naked eye. Poor symmetry in a marquise might make the stone look lopsided or one tip appear misaligned. So, one could say a con is that not all marquises are cut equal – you have to be picky to find a nicely symmetrical one. Again, this is a manageable issue with careful selection.
  
  

In summary, the marquise cut’s main drawbacks (bow-tie, fragile tips, limited supply) are factors that a knowledgeable buyer can address. Many of these cons can be mitigated by choosing a quality stone and a proper setting, as we’ll outline next.

Why Marquise Diamonds Can Be Budget-Friendly

One big appeal of marquise cut diamonds is value for money. They tend to be more affordable than many other shapes, and here’s why:

• Higher Rough Yield: Cutting a marquise diamond wastes relatively little of the original rough stone compared to cutting a round. The football-like outline of a marquise can often be mapped onto a rough diamond in a way that uses more of the material. In contrast, cutting a round brilliant requires trimming away more of the rough (since a round shape doesn’t naturally fit into most rough diamond crystals). This efficient use of rough means the cost to produce a marquise is lower. As a result, the price per carat for a marquise diamond is usually less than that of a round. In simple terms, more of the diamond’s weight remains in the finished stone instead of being lost as scrap, and that savings is passed on to the consumer.
  
  
• Lower Demand: Marquise diamonds aren’t as universally sought-after as rounds or even ovals. Because fewer people are buying them (they make up well under 5% of engagement ring purchases), the market price isn’t driven up as high. Round brilliants command a premium largely due to their massive popularity. Fancy shapes like the marquise are often priced more gently. It’s basic supply-and-demand economics: lower demand can equal lower prices. For budget-conscious buyers, this means marquise offers a relative bargain for a given carat size or quality.
  
  
• Price Discounts vs. Rounds: When combining the above factors, it’s common to see marquise diamonds priced around 15-20% (or even more) cheaper than equivalent round diamonds. For example, if a 1-carat round G VS2 costs X dollars, a 1-carat marquise of similar G VS2 might be a few thousand less. (Exact percentages vary with market conditions, but a 10–25% discount range is typical.) That difference can be significant if you’re working within a budget. It might allow you to either save money on the center stone or reallocate funds to other features (like a more elaborate setting or a better color/clarity grade).
  
  
• Looks Bigger = More Value: Value isn’t only about the sticker price – it’s also about visual impact per dollar. As noted, a marquise’s larger face-up size means you get a bigger-looking diamond for the price you pay. One study found that a marquise of a given carat weight can appear about 15% larger on top than a round of the same weight. So, not only is the per-carat price lower, but you’re also getting an outsized appearance. This “bang for your buck” factor makes the marquise cut especially appealing if you want a dazzling, sizeable-looking stone without a proportional increase in cost.
  
  

In short, marquise diamonds are kind to the budget both in purchase price and in perceived size. Their cost advantage comes from a mix of practical cutting efficiency and their under-the-radar status in the market. If you love the look of a marquise, you’ll be happy to know it can be a savvy financial choice as well.

(Worth noting: Price differences between shapes can fluctuate. Occasionally if marquise demand spikes or supply tightens, prices could rise. But generally, marquises remain less pricey than rounds in the current market.)

How to Choose a Marquise Diamond (Buyer’s Guide)

Choosing a marquise cut diamond requires a bit more attention to cut details than choosing a round, but it’s straightforward if you know what to look for. Here are the key tips and considerations to ensure you get a beautiful marquise:

• Cut Quality & Bow-Tie: Since labs like GIA do not assign an official cut grade to fancy shapes like the marquise, you’ll want to evaluate cut quality yourself (or with the help of a jeweler). A top priority is finding a stone with an acceptable bow-tie effect. Expect a slight bow-tie in any elongated diamond, but avoid stones with an overly dark or prominent bow-tie, as it will detract from brilliance. Examine the diamond in various lights or request a magnified video from the seller – move it around to see if a noticeable black shadow spans the center. If the bow-tie appears faint or only visible at certain angles, that’s usually fine. But if you see a large, dark bow-tie immediately, consider another stone. A well-cut marquise will have a nice balance of light and dark areas (some contrast is okay) rather than a big dead spot in the middle. In general, shallower stones or those with very steep ends tend to have the worst bow-ties, so aim for balanced proportions (more on that next). Don’t hesitate to ask for photos/videos – a reputable jeweler will understand this concern. Tip: one diamond expert suggests always asking to see the actual marquise stone (or a video) to judge the bow-tie and brilliance before finalizing your purchase.
  
  
• Length-to-Width Ratio: Marquise diamonds come in a range of silhouettes from “fat” to “skinny.” This is described by the length-to-width ratio (L/W) – basically how many times longer the diamond is than it is wide. Personal preference plays a big role here, but a classic marquise is typically around 1.75 to 2.15 times as long as it is wide. Most marquise cuts you’ll see fall in this range. For example, a stone 10 mm long and 5 mm wide has a 2.0 ratio. Around 2.0 is often considered the sweet spot for an elegant look. A lower ratio (~1.6-1.7) will make the marquise appear shorter and wider (more “oval-esque” in appearance), whereas a higher ratio (2.2 or above) yields an extra slim, elongated look. Neither is wrong – some people love a very slender marquise, while others prefer a chunkier shape. Decide what ratio appeals to you by comparing reference images. If you want the finger-lengthening effect to the max, you might lean toward ~2.0 or above. If you like a softer, wider look, around 1.7 could be ideal. Just ensure whichever stone you choose has graceful, symmetrical curves on both sides. Also, note that if you plan to set the diamond with side stones or a halo, that can affect its apparent proportions (for instance, a halo can make a marquise look wider). In those cases, you might pick a slightly more elongated ratio to compensate.
  
  
• Symmetry: Symmetry is crucial for marquise diamonds. The two pointed ends should align perfectly on the horizontal axis, and the left and right halves of the stone should be mirror images. Check that the curves (or arcs) on both sides are evenly shaped – no side should be flatter or lumpier than the other. Any asymmetry will be noticeable once the diamond is set (the human eye is quite good at catching when something is “off” by even a little). Look at the outline both head-on and from the profile if possible. GIA reports do list symmetry as a grade (Excellent/Very Good/Good, etc.), and it’s wise to stick to Excellent or Very Good symmetry for a marquise. This will help ensure the stone’s beauty. If you’re viewing a loose diamond, you can also draw an imaginary line down the middle – the facets and shape on each side should match. Symmetry issues in a marquise might show up as one tip looking slightly higher, or the center line of the diamond looking bent; avoid those stones. A well-cut marquise will have a pleasing, balanced outline from tip to tip.
  
  
• Protective Setting: We’ve emphasized it before, but when buying a marquise for a ring, plan for a protective setting. The simplest approach is to choose a setting that uses V-prongs at the two ends (these prongs have a notch or “V” that cups the pointed tip). V-prongs will hold the tips securely and buffer them from impacts. Most six-prong solitaire settings for marquise diamonds are configured this way (two prongs for the tips, and four around the sides). If you prefer a more modern look, a bezel setting – which encircles the entire diamond in metal – offers even more protection, completely covering the points. The trade-off is a bezel can slightly reduce the perceived size of the diamond, but many find the safety and sleek look worth it. In any case, avoid settings that leave the marquise’s tips overly exposed. When consulting with your jeweler, mention that you want the tips well-protected; it’s a common request and important for everyday wear. With the right setting, you won’t have to worry about chipping and can enjoy your marquise for a lifetime.
  
  
• Color Grade: Because marquise diamonds show color a bit more at their pointed ends, be thoughtful about your color choice. For a truly icy-white look, especially in a larger marquise stone (>1 carat), many experts recommend sticking to the near-colorless or colorless range (approximately D–H color). An H color marquise set in white gold or platinum should face up white, with minimal detectable warmth. If you go lower (I, J, etc.) in a white metal, you might start noticing a slight tint at the tips in certain lights, given the marquise’s tendency to reveal color. However, context matters: if you plan to set the diamond in yellow or rose gold, the warm tones of the metal can mask a bit of warmth in the stone. In those cases, going down to an I or even J color can still look great and save you money. The metal will impart its color to the diamond’s appearance, making the diamond look whiter relative to the setting. In summary, for white metal settings, targeting around H or better is a safe bet for a marquise. For yellow/rose gold settings, you have more flexibility to drop into the I–J range if you want without the stone looking obviously tinted. As always, consider your personal sensitivity to color; some people don’t mind a warm tint if it means a larger stone, while others want the most colorless diamond possible.
  
  
• Clarity Grade: The good news is that marquise cuts hide inclusions quite well. Their brilliant faceting and elongated shape can mask small imperfections, especially near the tips or edges (which prongs can cover). This means you can often choose a slightly lower clarity (such as SI1 or SI2) and still have an eye-clean diamond, thereby stretching your budget. Many marquises will look flawless to the naked eye even if they have inclusions that are VS2 or SI1 on the grading report – as long as those inclusions aren’t large or centrally located. When evaluating clarity, pay attention to any inclusions near the points; large fractures or crystals at the very tips are undesirable because the tips are structurally sensitive (and an inclusion could weaken them). Also avoid dark inclusions smack in the center (they could be visible through the large table facet). But a few tiny specks or feathers off to the side or near an edge likely won’t be noticeable. Our advice: aim for the lowest clarity grade that is still eye-clean. For many, that’s in the SI1–SI2 range for a marquise, which is a great way to save money. If the stone is larger (2+ carats), you might bump up to VS2 to be safe, since bigger diamonds make inclusions more visible. Always inspect the diamond (or images) at a reasonable zoom to ensure you’re comfortable with the clarity. Remember, brilliance can hide a lot – a sparkly marquise will conceal small flaws in its shimmer.
  
  
• Overall Proportions: Beyond the L/W ratio, other proportions like table percentage and depth percentage can inform a marquise’s cut quality. While we won’t dive deep into numbers here, an ideal marquise often has a medium to slightly large table (around 53-63% is a commonly cited ideal range) and a depth around 58-63%. Extremes in either can cause issues (too deep = overly small face-up, too shallow = weak brilliance and “fish-eye” effect). Also check that the marquise has nicely defined points – they should be sharp and centered, not noticeably rounded or chipped. The girdle (edge) at the points shouldn’t be extremely thin either, or it could chip; a medium girdle thickness at the tips is preferable. If you’re unsure, consult a jeweler or refer to a marquise cut chart for guidance on good ranges for table, depth, etc. But if the stone looks brilliant, has minimal bow-tie, and a pleasing shape, it’s likely within acceptable cut proportions. Use your eyes: a beautiful marquise will “pop” and have lively sparkle across the stone, not a glassy or dull look.
  
  
• Lab-Grown Options: Finally, consider lab-grown marquise diamonds as you shop. One challenge with marquises can be finding enough options in the exact specs you want (due to lower supply). Lab-grown diamonds have expanded the choices available. Many retailers now offer a variety of lab-created marquise cuts, which have the same physical and optical properties as mined diamonds. The benefit is you might locate that perfect combination of size, color, and clarity more easily – and at an even more affordable price. In fact, some companies note that they carry a “vast selection” of high-quality lab-grown marquise stones in their inventory. If you’re open to lab-grown, it’s a fantastic way to get a larger or higher-grade marquise diamond for your budget, and you won’t be as constrained by the traditional market’s limited supply. Plus, lab diamonds are ethically and environmentally friendly, which is a bonus for many buyers.
  
  

In summary, choosing a marquise diamond comes down to finding a well-cut stone with minimal bow-tie, pleasing symmetry, and the right proportions for your taste – then setting it securely to protect those delicate tips. Pay attention to the diamond’s shape and performance more than any single lab metric, since fancy cuts require a bit of visual evaluation. Don’t be afraid to compare several marquises to see which one “speaks” to you; the extra effort will be worth it when you see that perfect marquise sparkling on your finger. With its blend of unique style, size-for-carat, and value, a marquise cut diamond can be a truly stunning choice for an engagement ring that stands out from the crowd. Enjoy the hunt for your ideal marquise, and revel in the distinctive beauty of this royal-inspired cut!