Asscher Cut Diamonds: Vintage Allure Buying Guide

Asscher cut diamonds offer a captivating blend of vintage charm and modern sophistication. This distinctive square step-cut was first developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher in Holland, and it rose to fame during the Art Deco era of the 1920s. With their “hall of mirrors” depth and elegant geometry, Asscher cuts stand out from more common diamond shapes. In this guide, we’ll explore what defines an Asscher cut, how it compares to similar cuts (like the emerald cut), reasons to choose an Asscher, key quality considerations (clarity, color, proportions), and the cost and value aspects – including why lab-grown Asscher diamonds can be an excellent choice for budget-conscious buyers who love this vintage style.

What Is an Asscher Cut Diamond?

An Asscher cut diamond is essentially a square-shaped emerald cut with deeply clipped corners, giving it an octagonal outline. It features large step facets arranged in parallel tiers on the pavilion and crown, rather than the triangular/brilliant facets of a round or princess cut. When you look straight down through the Asscher’s wide, open table, you’ll see a distinctive “X” or windmill pattern formed by its converging facets toward the culet. This symmetry and facet arrangement create a mesmerizing kaleidoscope effect often described as a “hall of mirrors,” where light reflects in broad flashes and draws the eye deep into the stone.

The Asscher cut’s heritage adds to its allure. It was invented by Joseph Asscher, a legendary Amsterdam diamond cutter (famous for cutting the 3,106 ct Cullinan diamond), and introduced in 1902. In fact, the Asscher cut was the first diamond shape ever to be patented, giving the Asscher family exclusive rights to produce it until World War II. The cut gained widespread popularity in the Art Deco period (1920s), when its clean lines and geometric form perfectly matched the era’s design aesthetic. Modern Asscher cuts typically have 58 facets (the same number as a round brilliant, but arranged in a step configuration) and a high crown. This high crown and small table contribute to the Asscher’s depth and flash, though they also mean the stone will have a smaller face-up size for a given carat weight compared to some other cuts.

In summary, an Asscher cut diamond is a step-cut, square gem with cropped corners and a vintage pedigree. It delivers sophisticated, understated brilliance – not as fiery as a brilliant cut, but with a unique vintage elegance that many brides-to-be adore.

Asscher Cut vs. Emerald Cut: What’s the Difference?

Because the Asscher cut is essentially a square emerald cut, it’s helpful to compare these two step-cut styles. Both Asscher and emerald cuts have the classic step facets that emphasize clarity and luster over scintillation. The key difference lies in their shape and visual pattern:

• Shape & Proportions: An emerald cut is rectangular, usually with a length-to-width ratio around 1.3 to 1.5, whereas an Asscher cut is square or nearly square (ideal L/W ~1.0 to 1.05). The Asscher’s corners are cropped, giving it an octagonal outline, while an emerald cut also has trimmed corners but appears more elongated. In practical terms, an emerald cut of a given carat will appear longer and larger face-up than an Asscher of equal weight, simply due to the emerald’s stretched shape. An Asscher, by contrast, concentrates its weight more deeply (higher crown and deeper pavilion), which can make it look slightly smaller, but very bright and symmetrical.
  
  
• Facet Pattern: Both are step cuts, but Asscher cuts typically exhibit a pronounced “X” pattern (the windmill effect) when viewed face-up, thanks to their symmetry. Emerald cuts have parallel step facets but lack the Asscher’s radial symmetry. The Asscher’s facets meet in the center in a way that often creates a striking “square within a square” appearance or an endless mirrored look in the center. Emerald cuts show broad flashes of light in a more linear fashion. Many find the Asscher’s pattern more mesmerizing, whereas emerald cuts have a sleek, open elegance.
  
  
• Brilliance & Fire: Neither step cut will out-sparkle a brilliant-cut diamond, as they are designed more for clear reflections and less for dispersion of light. Between the two, however, a well-cut Asscher can exhibit slightly more overall sparkle or brightness than an emerald cut of similar quality. This is because the Asscher’s square shape and additional pavilion facets (in modern designs) can return more light straight back up. By contrast, the longer emerald cut may leak a bit more light out the sides, though it often appears larger. Importantly, both Asscher and emerald cuts trade intense “fire” (colored sparkle) for a sophisticated glow. They excel at showcasing a diamond’s transparency and polish rather than a fiery scintillation. Personal preference is the deciding factor here: some love the Asscher’s extra dose of brilliance and symmetrical look, while others prefer the emerald’s elongated silhouette.
  
  
• Visibility of Flaws: Both shapes will show inclusions and color more readily than brilliant cuts (more on that below). In fact, emerald cuts, with their expansive rectangular tables, can make inclusions very obvious – experts often suggest going slightly higher in clarity for an emerald cut vs. an Asscher. That said, an Asscher also has a large open table, so both cuts demand careful attention to quality.
  
  

In short, Asscher = square, emerald = rectangle. The Asscher offers a distinctive vintage sparkle and “X” facet motif, while the emerald cut delivers a classic hall-of-mirrors look on a larger canvas. Both are stunning step cuts – choosing one comes down to whether you prefer the square Deco style of the Asscher or the elongated elegance of the emerald cut.

Why Choose an Asscher Cut Diamond?

If you’re drawn to the Asscher cut, you’re likely enchanted by its unique blend of characteristics. Here are some of the compelling reasons (pros) to choose an Asscher cut diamond, as well as a few considerations (cons) to keep in mind:

Pros of Asscher Cut Diamonds:

• Vintage Allure & Distinctive Style: Asscher cuts are imbued with Art Deco-era glamour. Their bold, clean lines and symmetrical faceting give a vintage elegance that appeals to those who love antique or classic styles. Choosing an Asscher means your ring will have an uncommon, almost regal look – it’s a shape that not everyone else will be wearing. In a world dominated by round brilliants, an Asscher cut engagement ring stands out as distinctive and sophisticated.
  
  
• Mesmerizing “Hall of Mirrors” Effect: The step-cut facets of an Asscher create a beautiful optical effect often described as looking into a hall of mirrors or a kaleidoscope. When light hits a well-cut Asscher, you see broad flashes and a deep internal glow rather than a splintery sparkle. Many admirers find themselves “lost” in the depth of an Asscher – the eye is drawn into the stone’s center, following that geometric pattern. This subtle scintillation has an almost hypnotic, timeless charm.
  
  
• Symmetry and the “X” Pattern: The Asscher’s facet arrangement yields a striking X-shaped pattern when viewed face-up (sometimes called a windmill pattern). This symmetry can be very appealing to the eye. It gives the stone a balanced, orderly beauty. If you appreciate clean geometry and order, the Asscher cut delivers it in spades. Every properly cut Asscher will display that centered “X” or concentric square pattern – a signature look you won’t get in other shapes.
  
  
• Durability of Shape: Thanks to its cut corners, an Asscher cut doesn’t have the sharp, pointed edges of shapes like princess or marquise cuts. The four clipped corners (beveled edges) make the diamond less prone to chipping during setting or daily wear. This can be a practical advantage; you still should protect an Asscher in a secure setting, but its shape inherently avoids the weakest points (no acute angles that could snag or crack).
  
  
• Relatively Affordable (Lower Cost-Per-Carat): Asscher cut diamonds are often priced lower per carat than round brilliants and some other popular cuts. There are a couple of reasons for this: (1) Market demand for Asschers is lower than for rounds, so prices aren’t driven up as high; and (2) the cutting process for an Asscher can retain more of the rough diamond (less wastage) than a round cut. In fact, cutters don’t have to shave off as much material to achieve the square shape, keeping costs down. You can expect to pay around 30–40% less per carat for an Asscher cut diamond compared to an equivalent round brilliant. This means your budget can stretch to a larger carat weight or higher quality in an Asscher. (We’ll discuss pricing in detail later, including how lab-grown Asschers further increase value.)
  
  
• Complements Vintage and Modern Settings: The Asscher’s versatile look works well in vintage-inspired ring designs (think Art Deco halo or milgrain bezel) and in modern minimalist solitaires. Many opt to accentuate an Asscher with baguette side stones or pavé halos that echo its geometry. Alternatively, pairing an Asscher center stone with brilliant-cut side diamonds can add extra sparkle while highlighting the Asscher’s shape. In short, you can style an Asscher cut ring to emphasize its antique flair or give it a contemporary twist – it’s quite adaptable.
  
  

Cons or Considerations:

• Less Sparkle (Lower Brilliance): If your top priority is a diamond that maximally sparkles and scintillates, an Asscher cut might not deliver the same impact as a round, princess, oval, or other brilliant cut. The Asscher’s step-cut facets produce more of a flash or glow than a twinkling sparkle. By design, step cuts are “not as bright and never as fiery as brilliant cut stones”, instead showcasing clarity and luster. A high-quality Asscher will still look stunning, but side-by-side with a round, it will show fewer but broader flashes of light and far less colored fire. For some, this subtlety is part of the appeal; but if you want a dazzling sparkle fest, you might consider another cut or adding a halo of brilliant diamonds to boost overall shine.
  
  
• Inclusions Are More Visible: Asscher cuts do not hide flaws well. The large, unobstructed table is like a clear window into the diamond’s interior. Any inclusion (tiny crystal, feather, etc.) that would be hard to see in a brilliant-cut can be plainly visible in a step cut. As experts note, “VS2 clarity inclusions which would almost never be seen in a round diamond can easily be seen... in an emerald or asscher cut”. You generally need a higher clarity grade to ensure an Asscher is eye-clean (more on that in Quality Considerations). This means you might end up spending more on clarity, which offsets some of the shape’s price advantage. Bottom line: if you choose an Asscher, plan to prioritize clarity (typically VS2 or better).
  
  
• Shows More Color Tint: Similarly, Asscher cuts tend to reveal a diamond’s color more readily than brilliant cuts. The broad facets and lack of intense sparkle mean there’s less camouflage for any yellow tinge in the stone. A J-color that might face up white in a round will likely show a faint warmth in an Asscher. Many gemologists recommend aiming for a higher color grade with step cuts – often G or H color (near-colorless) or better – to ensure the diamond appears icy-white. In practical terms, you may need to pay for one or two color grades higher than you would for a brilliant shape to get the same colorless appearance. (On the flip side, if you like vintage tints or fancy colors, an Asscher will showcase them honestly.)
  
  
• Looks Smaller for the Carat Weight: Many people observe that Asscher (and emerald) cuts appear a bit smaller face-up than some other cuts of the same carat weight. The Asscher’s high crown and depth carry more weight below the girdle, and its clipped corners reduce diagonal span, so the surface area (diameter) is less than, say, a round of equal weight. For example, a 1 carat Asscher might measure ~5.5 mm across, whereas a 1 carat round is ~6.4 mm in diameter. If size appearance matters a lot to you, you might compensate by choosing a slightly heavier Asscher or a setting that enlarges the look (like a halo). The good news is the lower cost per carat can make upsizing more affordable (you can “just overcome this size issue by buying a MASSIVE Asscher,” as one writer quipped).
  
  
• Rarity & Fewer Choices: Because Asscher cuts are less in demand than rounds or ovals, inventory can be limited. Not all jewelers carry many Asschers in stock. You’ll have far fewer options to choose from compared to the thousands of rounds available online. This isn’t a deal-breaker, but it may mean you need to shop around or special order to find “the one”. The flip side is that the rarity of Asscher engagement rings is part of their appeal – you’ll be wearing something unique.
  
  

Overall, if you love an Asscher cut’s look and heritage, the pros generally outweigh the cons. The main trade-offs (lower but elegant brilliance, need for higher clarity/color, slightly smaller face-up size) are well understood and can be managed by careful diamond selection. For many, the vintage glamour and distinctive geometry of an Asscher cut diamond make it well worth it!

Quality Considerations for Asscher Cut Diamonds

Because Asscher cut diamonds are less forgiving of inclusions and color, and because there’s no universal cut grade assigned by labs (GIA doesn’t give fancy shapes a cut grade), you’ll want to pay special attention to the 4 Cs when buying an Asscher. Here’s what to look for:

• Clarity: Clarity is critical in an Asscher cut. As noted, the large step facets act like clear windows, so even small imperfections can stand out. It’s generally recommended to stick to VS2 clarity or higher for an Asscher cut. In fact, many cutters start with at least a VS2 or better rough when creating an Asscher. Flaws that would be invisible in a brilliant (e.g., a VS2 cloud or feather) might be visible to the naked eye in an Asscher. While it is possible to find an eye-clean SI1 Asscher in smaller sizes or with inclusions tucked near the edges, these are exceptions – assume you’ll need a higher clarity grade. Tip: Always inspect magnified images or videos of step-cut diamonds (most reputable vendors provide 360° views) to ensure the stone is eye-clean, especially if you venture into SI clarity. But for peace of mind, VS2 (or VS1/VVS) is usually the best value range for Asschers. The good news is that lab-grown Asscher diamonds often come in high clarity grades at reasonable prices, making it easier to get a flawless-looking stone (more on lab-grown shortly).
  
  
• Color: Color tends to show more in step cuts because there’s less sparkle to mask any tint. A well-cut Asscher will display the true body color of the diamond. For a colorless appearance, many experts suggest a minimum of H color for Asscher cut diamonds. Some go further and recommend G or better if you’re very color-sensitive or the diamond is larger than ~1.5 carats. That said, a high-quality I color can still face-up white in an Asscher, especially in certain lighting, and can offer good value. The key is to avoid going too low: J color is typically not recommended for Asscher or emerald cuts, because they “retain color slightly more” than rounds and the yellow tint will be noticeable. So, aim for the near-colorless range (G–I) or higher. If set in yellow/rose gold, you have a bit more leeway as the metal can camouflage a warmer tint. And of course, if you’re intentionally choosing a fancy color Asscher (like a champagne or canary yellow diamond), then the cut will beautifully showcase that hue.
  
  
• Cut Quality (Proportions & Symmetry): Unlike round brilliants, fancy shapes like Asschers don’t receive an explicit cut grade from GIA. However, cut still matters tremendously for beauty. A poorly cut Asscher can appear dull or lopsided. Look for stones with at least Very Good to Excellent symmetry and polish on the lab report – this ensures the facets are aligned for that mirror effect. Depth and table percentages are useful guides: ideally, an Asscher’s depth will be in the range of about 60% to 68% of the diameter. Within this range, the stone isn’t too shallow (which could cause a “fish-eye” effect or glassy look) nor too deep (which would make it face up smaller and potentially darker). In fact, many recommend staying on the lower end of depth if possible (around 61–65%) because step cuts don’t need extra depth to maintain brilliance – shallower cut = larger spread. For the table, a good target is around 55% – 65% of the diameter. A slightly smaller table (relative to depth) often indicates a higher crown, which can improve the “life” of the diamond. Avoid extremely large tables (>70%) or extreme depths (>70%) as those could indicate poor proportions. The girdle should be within a safe thickness (Thin to Thick is fine; avoid Very Thin girdles that could chip, and Extra Thick girdles that add unnecessary weight). Also ensure the length-to-width ratio is close to 1.00 if you want a true square – GIA will label it “square emerald cut” if L/W is 1.00 to 1.05. If the ratio creeps up beyond ~1.08, it will start to look noticeably rectangular (more like an emerald cut).
  
  
• Carat Weight & Size: Because Asscher cuts face up a bit smaller, you might consider slightly upping the carat weight to get the visual size you desire (budget permitting). For example, if you want the look of a 1 carat round (~6.5 mm), you might need an Asscher around 1.20 carats (perhaps ~6 mm side length) to have similar finger coverage. Always check the measurements (in mm) in addition to carat weight. Two Asschers of equal carat can have different spread if one is cut deeper than the other. Ideally, find a well-proportioned stone that balances spread and depth – that will give you the largest appearance for the weight.
  
  

In summary, buying an Asscher cut diamond means paying extra attention to clarity, color, and cut details. Aim for a clean, white, well-proportioned stone: approximately VS2+ clarity and H (or better) color for that crisp, timeless look. Don’t be afraid to ask for idealscope images or ASET images from vendors if available, or consult an expert, since evaluating step cuts can be nuanced. And remember, a beautifully cut Asscher with high clarity will reward you with that dazzling hall-of-mirrors effect that makes this shape so alluring.

Cost & Value: Are Asscher Cuts a Good Investment?

One pleasant surprise about Asscher cut diamonds is their price point relative to more popular cuts. As mentioned, Asschers tend to be more affordable on a per-carat basis than round brilliants. To quantify this: one analysis found that a 1 carat VS2, I-color Asscher cost on average about 35%–40% less than a comparable 1 carat round brilliant. This price gap stems largely from lower consumer demand for Asschers (rounds command a premium due to popularity) and from the efficient cutting process (less raw diamond is wasted when cutting a square step-cut).

Value considerations:

• You Pay Less for Shape, But More for Quality: The base cost of choosing an Asscher shape is lower, which is great. However, as we’ve discussed, you’ll likely allocate some of that savings toward higher clarity or color to get the best from the stone. For example, you might buy an Asscher at VS1 clarity whereas you’d have settled for SI1 in a round. Even with that, you often still come out ahead cost-wise, or at least comparable, while ending up with a higher-quality diamond. In essence, Asscher cuts let you invest your budget in quality upgrades (clarity/color) rather than paying a premium just for the shape.
  
  
• High Yield = Good Value: Because “the majority of the rough stone is maintained in the cutting process” for an Asscher, the price per carat stays relatively low. You’re not paying for as much discarded weight as you are with a round. From a value perspective, you are getting more diamond for your dollar, literally.
  
  
• Resale and Rarity: While diamond jewelry isn’t typically an “investment” in the financial sense (resale values are usually lower than retail purchase), an Asscher’s rarity can be a selling point if you ever were to upgrade or trade-in. Niche shapes can attract niche buyers looking for something special. That said, rounds and other classics do have broader market appeal. Buy an Asscher because you love it, not as a speculative asset.
  
  
• Lab-Grown Asscher Diamonds – Maximum Bang for Your Buck: If value is a top concern, lab-grown diamonds offer tremendous savings, and Asscher cuts are no exception. Lab-grown Asscher diamonds are chemically and visually identical to mined ones, but they typically cost 30% to 50% less than their earth-mined counterparts of the same size and quality. This means you could afford, for example, a 2 carat lab-grown Asscher for the price of a 1 carat natural Asscher – a huge win if you desire a big, showstopping stone. Or you could get a lab-grown Asscher with superb clarity (IF/VVS) and color (D-F) that might be out of reach in a mined diamond. The lower cost of lab-grown mitigates the need to compromise. Many eco- and budget-conscious couples are choosing lab-grown for exactly these reasons: “you can get a bigger size diamond for your budget” without sacrificing the Asscher’s beauty. Do keep in mind that lab diamonds have different long-term value dynamics (resale is lower), but as a consumer purchase they offer unparalleled immediate value.
  
  
• Example Pricing: To give a rough idea, a natural 1 carat G color, VS2 clarity Asscher might be around $3,000–$4,000 (versus $5,000+ for a round of similar specs). A lab-grown Asscher of the same specs could be well under $2,000 (prices continually dropping as of 2025). As carat weight increases, the gap in absolute dollars widens. Always compare across vendors, but these patterns hold generally true.
  
  

When considering cost vs. benefit, an Asscher cut diamond (especially a lab-grown one) often represents a smart buy: you get a distinctive, head-turning look without the price premium of trendier cuts. The money saved can be put into a better setting, a higher carat weight, or simply kept in your pocket. And you’ll have a ring that’s both beautiful and a bit different from the rest.

Final Thoughts

An Asscher cut diamond is a choice that speaks to a love of vintage charm, architectural beauty, and understated elegance. From its storied origins with Joseph Asscher to its resurgence among those seeking unique engagement rings, the Asscher cut has proven itself a timeless option. By understanding the nuances – its differences from other cuts, the importance of quality factors like clarity and color, and its cost advantages – you can confidently select a stunning Asscher cut diamond that fits your style and budget. Whether you go for a classic mined diamond or a brilliant lab-grown stone, the Asscher’s mirrored facets and iconic “X” pattern are sure to captivate you for years to come, reflecting your own personal taste and history in every flash of light.